Book Review - Guide to the National Parks of Canada

Right off the top this book states that “the goal of National Parks is to protect and present outstanding examples of Canada’s 39 natural regions and proudly offer travellers one of the world’s greatest opportunities to connect with the grandeur and the intimacy of nature and experience unforgettable moments of personal discovery.”  Wow. Sign me up!

As one might expect from a publication by National Geographic, the photographs are amazing, inspiring and make you want to grab your backpack right this minute.

There is no Table of Contents which at first was surprising, but the guide is well laid out with coloured tabs on the page edges separating Canada into six regions: Atlantic Provinces, Quebec & Ontario, Prairie Provinces, Rockies, Pacific Rim and Far North.  Each region begins with a short introduction describing the topography and what that particular region is best known for.

Each park is featured individually with detailed information on how to get there as some parks require flight or rail access. You will find a small map ( scale : 30 miles per inch ) of each park which doesn’t allow for a lot of detail but does show lakes and rivers and offer a visual idea of the topography. At any rate, as the parks are typically isolated, an interior trip would need to include advance planning and detailed topography maps larger than the book could possibly provide. Also listed for each park are:  things to do, seasons and accessibility, licensed tour operators, campgrounds and entrance fees, hotels and inns, points of interest and what activities the park is best known for. If there is something you need to know in order to be safe on your trip, special advisories alert you.  So whether you are a hiker, cyclist, camper, photographer, kayaker, canoeist or just someone with an appreciation for nature I am pretty sure you will be motivated to visit one of these national gems if you pick up this book. You could easily use this book as your only source to plan your trip entirely.

My one disappointment is the index. If you were looking for a destination for biking, say, or hiking, you wouldn’t find it listed as the index is comprised totally of the park names. This means if you want to know which parks offer the best opportunity for your favourite activity, you will need to thumb through each park section.

Finally, if you are a history buff, you will find a listing of all the National Historic Sites of Canada in the back of the book. There is little detail about the sites, however at the end of the listings you will find the web address to Parks Canada for further information.

All in all, a very worthwhile book that I know you will enjoy. Hopefully it inspires you to get out there and explore the beauty and solitude of nature.  We truly are lucky to have parks such as these.

Pelee Island

Winter’s grip is finally slipping, albeit slower than we might like - yet there is no denying the remnant snow cannot hold out much longer against the stronger spring sun.  Certainly the promise of warmer temperatures has you putting some thought toward summer holidays.

You might want to give some consideration to Pelee Island; the most southerly point of Canada located 40km offshore in Lake Erie. While the island could easily be described as calm and quiet, it does have a lot to offer regardless your age or how active you want to be on your vacation. If you are a birder you probably already know this place is a magnet during the spring and fall migration when the sky fills with winged friends coming in for a little rest before continuing on their route. The island is home to the PeleeIsland Bird Observatory, which you can visit – by appointment.

For hikers, there are miles of shoreline, most of which is public access. No, that’s not a typo – most of it IS accessible to the public. There are trails to be explored at Fish Point Provincial Nature Reserve and at Lighthouse Point Nature Reserve where a beautifully restored lighthouse, originally erected in 1833, offers some fabulous photo opportunities. The boardwalks and towering grasses along the nature reserve trails give an almost exotic feel as you skirt marshy areas on your way to the lake. Inland look for the Stone Road Alvar Conservation Area with even more hiking options and a chance to see some rare species as this habitat is in the Carolinian zone.  Cycling is a common past time on the island with 34 km of on-road trails. You can rent a bicycle near the ferry dock if you didn’t bring yours.

 

There are guided tours for those who want to find everything the island has to offer, fish charters for the sports enthusiast and in the fall, a week long Ringed-Neck Pheasant hunt for hunters which takes over the entire island. If you aren’t partaking in the hunt, this is not the time to visit the island.

Other things to do include the not-to-be-missed Pelee Island Winery where you can take the tour, or just visit, purchase some steak or burgers from their freezer and use their barbecues to have a picnic on site. Of course you can have some wine with that meal, too, if you like. There is the Kite Museum and the Heritage Centre which charge nominal fees. Both are very interesting places to spend some time. The Heritage Centre is near the ferry dock, and it is easy to leave it to last when you are preparing to leave the island and waiting for the ferry to arrive, but we found this didn’t give us enough time to enjoy the history of the island that is so well presented and bountiful here.

There are many accommodation options, from camping to bed and breakfast, cottage rental and resorts, all of which will provide you with an experience not to be found on the mainland.  After all, the romance of the island is no matter where you are, you’re never far from having the lake lapping at your feet.

Here are a few things you should know to optimize your visit. There is no grocery store on the island so stock up before you get on the ferry. There is a co-op but you will find it very expensive.  There has been a boil water advisory on the island for the past 10 years. Most resorts and cottages have their own water treatment systems, but it is best to check first and bring a case of water with you. The currents at the tip of the sand spit are very dangerous so swimming here is not ideal, but with all the other swimming areas which are much safer, this will not be a hardship. The ferry (select MV Jiiaman on the website) only carries 40 vehicles per trip, so reservations are a must and keep in mind that it sails out of Leamington until August when it switches to the Kingsville dock. This is due to the harvest of grapes and getting them to the second Pelee Island Winery facility located in Kingsville for quick processing.

One more thing. If you have a fear of the lake and going across on the boat, simply go up to the third level of the ferry. Apparently the lake is so shallow, if the boat sank the observation deck would be still above the water.

Creemore is Home to the Smallest Jail

When you come upon the historic Village of Creemore, located 40 minutes west of Barrie, Ontario, make your way down Mill Street and past the beautifully kept century homes and vibrant downtown area, words like “quaint” and “picturesque” might come to mind. The village is nestled in the arms of the Niagara Escarpment, fed by both the Noisy and Mad Rivers and surrounded by a blanket of farm fields pulled right up to its boundaries. This alone is enough to give you a sense of stepping into a time when village and natural surroundings work hand in hand in a harmonic relationship instead of struggling against each other in the name of progress. Park the car and take a walk; there is a lot to see.

In this idyllic place it may be hard for you to envision the need for a jail, but wander over to Library Street and there it is for all to see; a 15 X 20 foot building with barred windows made of pale limestone and split face field stone. History has it the three cell jail was built in 1892 at a cost of $425.20, and although the very first inhabitant was a loose cow, it was used principally to incarcerate those who over imbibed in the seduction of alcohol and needed to sleep it off. The jail was later abandoned in 1940 and remained vacant until the 1970’s when it was opened to visitors in the summer months.  The flower gardens in season and the new museum adjacent mean you can spend some pleasant time here quite easily before heading back to Mill Street and the heart of the village.

 

The people who live here are fully aware of what a gem they have and there is a strong sense of community. For a population of only 1300, Creemore is a magnet for creative souls, and several galleries are solid proof of a healthy arts community.  Several restaurants offer myriad dining experiences, from café style at the bakery, to roadhouse style and fine dining for those who want to linger. You won’t find any of the typical franchise coffee shops or restaurants here, which is part of the allure. Instead you will find specialty shops born of owners with a passion, such as The Creemore 100 Mile Store. An appetite  for home furnishings and interior décor ideas can also be satiated here and if you brought the children, not only is there a bookstore, but a children’s emporium called Cardboard Castles.

By now you will have made your way to the south end of Mill Street and what could be more refreshing after a few hours of darting in and out of the many shops than to find Creemore Springs Brewery, which is open to the public and offers tours. I warn you, though, be mindful of how many samples you try. Rumour has it the last inmate housed at the jail stole the keys!

 

Olive Oil Emporium - Toronto

Limestone slopes and crags basked in a sunny, coastal climate – granted, it doesn’t sound like a description of a place to be found in Toronto, Ontario. Ah, but it is where you will find the product of a fruit grown in just those semi-arid conditions and presented in such a fresh state that you will evoke a vision of a kerchief clad matriarch in a full length skirt lovingly harvesting the fruit of the family olive grove into a wicker basket with weathered hands that have done this a million times before. Imagine sampling olive oils so fresh and light that they don’t even leave an oily film in your mouth when you drink it straight and discussing their complex properties in terms normally reserved for describing fine wines; peppery notes, mellow and sweet, to name a few. Only the very best olive oils are sourced and featured here at the Olive Oil Emporium located at 1707 Bayview Avenue, Toronto. All are 100% Extra Virgin Olive Oils that have been pressed within a few short hours of their harvest - a prerequisite to making it on the shelf here.

  

Not only oils but premium balsamic vinegars from Italy worthy of a place at your table can be sampled here. Taste not only the traditional olive oils and vinegars, but flavoured ones such as Blood Orange Olive Oil made by crushing blood oranges along with the olives, Mushroom Infused Olive Oil, Black Fig Balsamic Vinegar and Honey Ginger White Balsamic Vinegar. The hard part is making a decision but the process is undeniably one of a great deal of fun and exploration.  These versatile condiments will immediately take an everyday meal and escalate it to spectacular with nothing more than a drizzle. Really – it is that easy with the quality products found at this store.                                       

None of the olive oils or vinegars are prepackaged. Only once you make your selections are they bottled right before your eyes in the store, and then lovingly wrapped in tissue paper the colour of the olives themselves.

 

A good deal of thought has gone into the ambience of the store and the experience you will enjoy here, from the warm enveloping colours of an olive grove, the shiny stainless steel decanters which house the light sensitive oils and vinegars ready for your sampling to the impressive knowledge base owners Andreas and Mary Voulgaris are eager to share with you.  Each product has a descriptive taste profile, country of origin, a rating of the fruitiness, bitterness and pungency as well as the date the fruit was crushed, serving suggestions and for the health enthusiast and scientist in you, a chemical analysis with the amount of polyphenols, fatty acids and other properties.

If you cannot make it to the store, which is open seven days a week, this same information can be found on the on-line store which ships all over Canada and the USA, but I encourage you to make the visit so you, too, can bitten by the romance of the olive. It is good for your heart, both emotionally and physically.

Book Review - Waterfalls of Ontario

Unlike other geological features ,  a  waterfall will call out to you; sometimes in the softest of whispers and at other times in an undeniable roar of greatness.  Whether it cascades as a trickle or in a solid curtain of water, there is no denying the mesmerizing effect of the endless freefall of life’s most precious commodity. As one watches the reflective sunlight in the deep pools below, or the churn of froth where vertical meets horizontal once again and seemingly trips over itself to form eddies around obstacles and pillows over rocks, is it any wonder that people seek out waterfalls? Two such obsessed souls have created a book for those who want more of the experience, and you won’t find another with as much information as is packed in this one.

 

Waterfalls of Ontario by Mark Harris and George Fischer, is definitely authored with passion. Over 100 waterfalls are broken down into eight regions, each with a recommended tour mapped out in order to optimize your falls viewing pleasure.  In the pages that follow you will find precise directions  with parking information and how long of a walk you can expect to reach the falls and over what kind of terrain. The text is descriptive and lets you know what you can expect to see and if one vantage point is better over another.  Oftentimes they describe the best positioning for photo opportunities and what time of year presents the best flow. If there are viewing platforms, they will tell you that, too.

George Fischer is responsible for the beautiful full page photo of each waterfall featured in the book and the spirituality and peace he finds as he stands before them is reflected in every shot. He has even lost some equipment in his efforts to bring you the best view.

It is obvious to me that the author and photographer didn’t arbitrarily select the subject of “waterfalls” and then go on a marathon throughout the Province to tag each and every one they could find. A lot of time and care has gone into this book to not only provide you with what you need to find the locations of the falls, but also information that will further enhance your journey, such as whether there are gas stations nearby or accommodations, the nearest place and other points of interest you may want to take in.

My first book review has set the bar rather high. I know whether you are a hiker, photographer or just enjoy scenic drives, you are going to love this book. The only advice I could dare to add would be this; in the spirit of The Tao, go with the flow.

 

Port Renfrew - Vancouver Island

For this post we are going clear across the country to the west coast of Canada, across the Georgia Strait to Vancouver Island. Take the BC Ferry to Nanaimo then make your way through the belly of the island, winding your way around mountains, through valleys, along lakes and past pines taller than you’ve ever imagined with breathtaking scenery at every turn. At Lake Cowichan,  follow a gravel logging road to Port Renfrew. Keep alert as there are logging trucks using this passage.

 Port Renfrew resides on the west coast of the island; home of Juan de Fuca Provincial Park, Botanical Beach and access point to several trailheads.  This small community has quite a few amenities given its proximity to such a diverse playground.

If you are here to hike and experience the exposed shoreline and old growth temperate rainforest, there is more than one option. The Juan deFuca Marine Trail begins here and snakes its way along the coastline and through very rugged terrain for 47 kilometres to China Beach. The other option is The West Coast Trail which is classed as difficult to challenging and includes steep climbs up cliffs using rope ladders.  At 75 km expect  this trail to take about 5 - 7 days in its entirety.

Botanical Beach is part of Juan de Fuca Provincial Park. Check the tide tables for low tide and head out for a 20 minute walk through the dense forest to reach this beach which resembles a distant planet of black jagged rock interspersed with smooth wave worn rocks. At first glance you might think it is a barren wasteland, however once you begin to clamber over the rocks it won’t take long to discover the tidal pools left behind by the receding ocean. Each pool is teaming with life patiently waiting until the tide returns and the ocean once again claims it as part of the rhythm of life. Enjoy such finds as anemones, sea urchins, mussels, snails, barnacles and seastars.  You might know seastars better as starfish, as they used to be called.  Their name has been changed as technically they are not a fish.

Botanical Beach was a marine station in 1900 belonging to the University of Minnesota where students and researchers gathered from all over the world to study the abundance of intertidal life here. There are easily hundreds of species of plants and animals that have learned to adapt to the wide range of conditions presented to them in the tidal pools. When the tide is out, the pools warm up quickly, the salinity changes, food sources are not readily found and predators make life a tenuous affair when you are trapped in a rocky bowl of water.

Take frequent glances out to sea for a chance to see KillerWhales and Grey Whales which can be seen swimming by or feeding  just off of the points. Grey Whales are best observed in March and April. If you are visiting between late August through May, Sea Lions are a viewing possibility. Oh, and those black basketballs bobbing at the surface? Harbour Seals.

We stayed at Trailhead Resort which is well situated and offers a variety of lodging options, from hiker huts for the minimalist to rooms with kitchenettes. There is a hot tub in the yard to soak in after a hard day of hiking, fishing charters, and a fish processing plant on site. Not only that, you need only walk across the street to enjoy great local food and enjoy the fruits of the ocean at The Coastal Kitchen Café.

A note about safety. The rocks at Botanical Beach are extremely sharp and slippery and it is helpful to have a walking stick. The island is also known to have black bears and cougars and they may be present here. Leave pets at home and do not allow small children to venture alone into bush areas. Develop a healthy respect for the power of waves and be aware of what the tide is doing and know where your escape trails are if your route becomes blocked by the surf.

Nothing Says Winter like Wasaga Beach

When you think of the world famous Wasaga Beach, does an endless  sandy beach dotted with sun worshippers and  the smell of suntan lotion come to mind? I admit it’s a nice thought and while the 14km white sand beach is definitely one of the main attractions of Wasaga Beach,  it isn’t the only one, nor is summer the only season to enjoy this playground.

Wasaga Beach Provincial Park is home to one of the rarest ecosystems in Canada and 30km of cross country ski trails of varying degrees of difficulty. Over thousands of years, prevailing winds collected sand into a large series of sand dunes, some of which are over 40 metres tall. The dunes are now covered by a pine-oak savannah; an open forest of pine and oak mixed with prairie plants. There is a healthy population of white tail deer in the park, as well as many winter birds.

For beginners or those wanting a nice, leisurely ski, choose the easy Blueberry Trail (4.0km), or the more moderate Pine Trail (2.4km). If you crave an adrenaline rush as much as your morning coffee, then head for the steep,  up and down, very challenging High Dunes Trail (5.8) for a physically demanding workout. This park also is a choice destination  for snowshoeing and moonlight skiing during the full moon.

No need to worry if you don’t have your own gear – you can rent what you need at the Wasaga Nordic & Trail Centre which also sells ski wax, accessories and refreshments, has washrooms and provides a place to warm up on a brisk winter day. There are also outback shelters to be found in the 800 hectare park, so pack a lunch, get out there and enjoy!  Find the centre just off Blueberry Trail near the OPP station.

When you’re finished with your skiis, make a quick visit to the beach for a drive-by before you head home. We came across this cyclist who was taking advantage of the frozen beach laid bare by an offshore wind. We Canadians definitely are a hardy bunch!

 

Snowshoeing at Torrance Barrens Conservation Area - Muskoka

 

Are you the type of person who likes to get out there in winter,  embracing the lively snap of cold air as it tries to work its way through your careful layers of clothing? Winter is the season of the longest night, it’s true, but it is also the time of the festival of light as daylight grows a little longer each day. Get out there and celebrate! You won’t be disappointed.

Snowshoeing is a great winter event and I invite you to visit Torrance Barrens with your equipment for a satisfying stomp over barren Precambrian bedrock that is more than 2 billion years old. Stand here, close your eyes and imagine the immensity of what this place represents.  It has been under mountains, under water, under glaciers miles thick and under tropical jungles many times during its existence. The bare bedrock is a result of wave washing of the receding ancient glacial Algonquin Lake and Nipissing Lake.

This conservation area consists of more than 5000 acres of Crown Land with two main trail loops and two extensions; parallel ridges of rock with lakes, small ponds and wetlands nestled in between. The trails are well marked with white blazes on trees and rocks, stone cairns and metal signs and a boardwalk near the start keeps you dry as you traverse through a marshy area.  Choose from 3, 5 or 6km trails. While the trails aren’t completely flat and trail guides rate them as difficult, we don’t find them particularly hard to navigate other than a tricky creek crossing on one of the trails. The creek isn’t that wide or deep but it’s the ascent on the other side that can be a struggle.  If you are unsure of your ability or endurance level, trek out part way, about 1km, and then return along the same trail and enjoy the same experience.  I wouldn’t recommend cross country skiing as winter winds can sometimes expose spots of bare bedrock not to mention you could potentially get hung up in low spreading junipers.

In summer Torrance Barrens is equally wonderful. Hiking, mountain biking, star and galaxy gazing or just sitting on the flat rock along the shoreline of Highland Pond for a picnic are some of the activities you might take part in. Blueberries grow in abundance here, too, which is why this is bear country, as the sign in the parking lot reminds you.

 

You will find Torrance Barrens on Southwood Road (approximately 7km south off Hwy. 169) with a parking lot of flat rock that is ploughed in winter.  Drive with care as the road has many twists and turns. Pick up a colour brochure at tourism information centres throughout Muskoka, Ministry of Natural Resources in Bracebridge or at the Muskoka Heritage Foundation Resource Centre.

Torrance Barrens is isolated. There are no services here except a well maintained port-a-potty just beyond the parking lot by Highland Pond.  Make sure you carry some water and snacks with you and be prepared for any eventuality. I always carry a flannel backed plastic table cloth in my backpack which I use for taking photographs from a lying down position, but this item can also come in really handy if you find yourself suddenly needing shelter.

This is a magical place of serenity and beauty with 360 degree vistas and just the occasional haunting whistle of a passing train in the distance.  There is no payment for use of this special gem of the Muskokas, other than to respect what you are witness to and a part of.  Pack your garbage out with you and  leave no trace other than footprints in the snow so that others who visit after you will enjoy the same experience.

 Torrance Barrens is also one of the few places in Canada which holds the designation of  Dark Sky Reserve, which I will post about in summer 2013.